Tribewanted: Vorovoro

I guess you could call me a virgin blogger, having never done this before, but I thought I would share some of the amazing experiences I had whilst staying on Vorovoro, it would be a crime not to.

As an ex-pat living for the past 6 months near Suva I thought I’d already learned quite a bit about life in Fiji, however I was soon to find out that there was a whole other side to living in this wonderful country.

My boyfriend was about to leave on a business trip to the Phillipines so I felt it was time for me to have an adventure of my own. Before I knew it I had booked a week on Vorovoro, my bags were packed & I was on the plane to Labasa.

I was instantly struck by how much slower life seems in Vanua Levu compared to Viti Levu. The taxi drivers actually go below the speed limit in Labasa, a relaxing change from the Lewis Hamilton wannabes of Suva. After a 30 minute boat ride along the river out the the ocean, we rounded the island to get my first glimpse of the village I was to call home for the next 10 days. The only sign of life I could see to begin with Ollie, Jimmy & Jenny’s youngest son & resident survival expert. (What this 5 year old can’t tell you about living on a Pacific island isn’t worth writing down.) Ollie was racing up & down the beach on the hunt for hermit crabs to use as bait on his handline to catch the elusive “big one”. (Later that week him & Jone caught a baby black tip reef shark, you’ll be pleased to know they put it back unharmed.)

After a tour of the village with Momma Jenny we settled down to a tasty lunch of papaya curry. The island was very quiet with just 3 other guests and in a few days time I would be the only one left. On the plus side this meant that I had a bure all to myself, private accommodation.

I was really impressed by the obvious commitment to sustainability by all those involved in the project. The real barrier to self- sufficiency however is the lack of fresh water, although this was the wet season in Fiji it only rained heavily twice during my stay. Coming from the rainy south where we get downpours on a daily basis this made a nice change for me but it was clear that this kind of weather was badly needed on Vorovoro.

I spent an unforgettable 10 days on the island. My first highlight was the snorkelling trip to the reef where we sighted an eagle ray & a couple of sharks. The following day it was time for the 4 Peaks walk, a very sweaty 2 hour trek across the backbone of Vorovoro. Momma Jenny led the way as we scrambled over rocks & fought our way through the long grass. We were rewarded with breath-taking views of the mainland, Mali & out to the open ocean. We were ready for morning tea when we arrived back.

Sevusevu day was a unmissable experience, however I felt a little in the spotlight being the only visiting tribe member. Tui Mali quickly put me at ease & before I knew it the ceremony was over & we were listening to pitch- perfect singing on the grog mat in the sunshine. The kava drinking & music went on into the wee small hours & I went to bed lamb chopped & happy.

Morning tea with Poasa & Frances was also a highlight, I’ve never seen so much cake for so few people. We had to ask Kinni to postpone lunch after we rolled back along the path full of roti, sconi & lolo.

The rest of my time was spent snorkelling the fantastic coral just off the beach with the lovely Wavu Jenny, watching movies in the Grand Bure with Team Fiji & beachcombing with Ollie. After one particularly high tide we found a dead sea snake, Ollie raced to find his older brother Lucas who proceeded to gut & skin it in order to make a belt, just like Pupu Epeli’s. What an education these kids are having, lucky things!

When the time came to say goodbye the small but very lovely tribe lined up to sing Isa Lei, the best I’ve had in Fiji so far.
What makes Vorovoro so magical is of course the people. The Cahills & Wavu Jenny were all so warm & welcoming, I met a kindred lover of tea in Jenny & will be on the look out for Masala Chai. Team Fiji are all wananavu, Pupu for his words of wisdom, Kinni & Frances for their delicious cooking, Poasa’s patience & Nemani’s big smile (loving his town style in Labasa). Not to mention Jone & Api- boat captains extra-ordinaire.

I’ve returned to the rainy south side of Viti Levu with a much more rounded view of life in Fiji, I’ve been practising my meke, been on the look out for a good tanoa & I’ve even had a go at baking one of Frances’ lovely cakes.

Vorovoro is a completely different experience, one I will never forget.