Tribewanted: Vorovoro

Oh where to start as I am still bubbling over with pleasure of it all. I told my husband on the phone from the island, that even if I were to take a thousand photos I could not impart the atmosphere and emotions and it proved right. I have in fact taken 450 photos so he has the general idea. The journey was as I expected long and tiring, firstly London to Seoul 11 hours, then after 3 hours stopover on to Nadi another 10 hours. From here a taxi to a hotel for the night then a 3 hour bus ride starting at 7.30 am. Wonderful bus journey through the countryside and by now I was excited though a tad tired. We arrived into the bustling city of Suva on market day with a council official warning us as we got off the bus, to mind our rucksacks and to ignore any approaches by locals. Not a good start but good advice. Fortunately we were ok and I loved the flea market where I purchased my much needed sulu or sarong ( worn on the grog mat and any ceremonial sessions) as it is sometimes called. After a day in the city it was off to our digs for the night, called the Rainforest Hotel. This was in fact set adjacent to a rain forest which we set off to explore the following day, truly natural and wonderfully green helped by a torrential downpour the whole evening. The name of the hotel said it all. We found a Sunday school outing enjoying themselves frolicking in a water pool, all fully clothed and happily smiling, whilst 2 ladies prepared a barbecue lunch. I felt already amongst friends and they loved our presence. After a friendly half hour exchange we had to move on but the first of many wonderful memories. The afternoon was
spent more cerebral, with a museum of culture visit, familiarising ourselves with some warrior history.

And so off to the airport for the small plane into Labasa a mere 40 mins away to be collected by a member of the Tribewanted team who took us by taxi into town to purchase any final needs and the regulatory “grog” – more on that later. The town itself is small, one single High St full of Indo Fijians, I felt I was in Delhi or Calcutta, and yes we were the days novelty factor as are any tribies when we arrive into town. We had to go to the busy market place to buy Kava. This is a traditional root that is pounded to powder, tossed into a cloth and lots of water added in a vessel called a Tanoa. The powder is dunked in the water and constantly wrung out and the liquid becomes like a big muddy puddle, tastes like it too. I just had to visit the internet cafe Govindas from where Ben the founder in the project’s early days conducted the business, and in fact where tribies today still flock to get messages home via Skype phone and email. And at last it was off to catch the boat which would finally connect my feet to the beach, that at times had seemed so elusive with problems at home. The 45 minute journey was in a small boat, just like going down the Amazon and then it suddenly opens up to the vast Pacific Ocean. Api the skilled boat captain making this journey in both night and day conditions, amazing navigation. And so Vorovoro was in my sights 7 months from seeing the first TV programme. It was an exciting but equally emotional moment. The boat slewed up onto the breathtaking site of the white beach and green trees and foliage. Soon to be friends, came to greet us and in a blink we were off the boat and a welcoming cup of tea and homemade cake by Frances the cook in hand. So at last, here, and I couldn’t wait to explore this island. It was more beautiful than I could imagine with infrastructure of traditional Bures (thatched huts), hammocks by the beach and open sheltered kitchen with a home made oil drum oven. I was in heaven and could not wait to “play dirty” as my earlier blog explained. I was like a kid in a toy shop, all the things I love doing in one place, all be it the other side of the world, but at least it was hot and sunny as a bonus. In the evening we were welcomed by Tui Mali, the land owner and Chief of the area. We presented our Kava to him as a show of appreciation for allowing us to stay on the island. This is known as a “Sevusevu” and all guests do this.

The days flew by with a wide variety of tasks including, re- piping the kitchen drain, concreting the new showers, sorting out the tool shed, repairing a well used hammock, sorting the ecotricity hut with its myriad of wires, laptops and the island power hub. By this I mean a single solar panel that supplied minimal power to charge up our mobile phones/laptops and fairy lights in the kitchen. Apart from the odd solar light around the island it was head torches for seeing anything. I now know what pitch black means. To phone home and due to the time difference it is a 100 yds walk amongst pitch black foliage in order to get a signal on the phone and if lucky reach home by phone. My husband was ecstatic to get my few phone calls and I was content in the knowledge he was being cared for and I could throw myself wholeheartedly into island life. To explain about the grog sessions. This is where at the end of a long tiring working day, Fijians chillout. They sit cross-legged around a woven mat on the floor with several guitars and sing traditional songs and yes drink the afore mentioned GROG in vast quantities. It is narcotic but not alcoholic so after a few hours people become very chilled out but not raving. I had a bilo (half a coconut drinking vessel) or 2 not being a fan of anything mind altering, and fortunately I can enjoy myself without the prop of a drink.

Listed below are new things I experienced as I think this would soon become a book if I ramble any more.

The List

• Learnt to de husk crack and grate a coconut


• Pick Paw Paws and make jam


• 4 Peak challenge, the island has 4 peaks and you climb up and slide down, literally. No mean feat.


• Variety of sleeping modes as only 4 members initially on the island, this crept up to 14 later.


• Slept in a military Hammock


• Slept in a tent on the beach


• Slept in a bure


• Learnt a Fijian meke (dance sitting down)


• Learnt to count to 10 in Fijian


• Learnt how to weave a traditional grog mat. Certainly easier to go and buy a carpet.


• Visited a local school on a neighbouring island (by boat) FANTASTIC. Played with the children


• Visited a village fund raising church bazaar (by boat) – very different to ours.


• Visited a monthly church gathering where a food feast was prepared. We were guests of honour.


• Snorkelling on a reef with an option to spear fish, Native style


• Pumped rainwater (liquid gold) up a hill to a storage tank in a flash storm, Hard work but great fun


• Had a solar shower on the beach


• Swam naked in the ocean, privately!!!


• Rambled along the beach collecting shells for a mosaic design on the new showers


• Saw a whale skeleton that washed up on the island. Poasa is reconstructing it having burnt the flesh off.


• Huge Campfire by the seashore in moonlight.


• Picking fresh lemons from trees and making lemon drink, Wonderful.

This is just a taster of my 2 weeks, but i think enough to give you an idea, of the variety on offer. En route home there was a visit to an Eco animal park and a National Sand Dune park to round off the trip. Like all holidays, all good things have to come to an end, but the memory of this one will certainly linger on.

With a big Vinaka to everyone on the island, who made this dream come true.

Jay