Tribewanted: Vorovoro

Bula Sia tribe,

It’s strange to imagine how quiet Vorovoro will be today after the tribe left on Tuesday with a belly full of grog and more than a few tears in our eyes. Although Monday was the big day the week was spent building up with a number of smaller celebrations.

On Wednesday Bengazi, Atama, Jenny and I were dropped off at the far end of Mali island and spent the afternoon walking back across, meeting amazing characters, and inviting the villages to the party. From the top of the hill above Nakawanga we could see Vorovoro floating in her turquoise waters. She looked peaceful yet powerful, and you would never know from a distance that this remote island in Northern Fiji could draw people from all over the world, learning and working and laughing together.

On Thursday evening, we enjoyed a meal with Team Fiji and Team Kana to thank them for all their hard work. It was a special evening, sharing food, stories and song. Amy baked a birthday cake shaped like the Grand Bure (the main ceremonial space and heart of the village) and we drank grog wishing each other happy birthday into the night.

Saturday evening the tribe made our way up to the headland, each dressed in a colour of the rainbow.
Watching the sun set over the ocean, news spread that Jimmy and Jenny Cahill (and family) would be taking on leadership of the project, we were over the moon to hear the news, and as the island lay expectantly below us we knew it was time for a new era.

As the tribe marked their 3rd birthday, Pupu was approaching his 70th. For those who don’t know Pupu Epeli, this is a man who drinks grog into the early hours without even a hint of a dodo (rest) and then rises at 5am ready to work. He is as strong as he is kind and funny, and was surrounded by many friends of all ages and we toasted a happy birthday and a happy long-life. He was escorted to the celebrations by Anna and Reina (2 tribal beauties) fanning him as he went and was greeted with presents including new tools, a hammock, and a very noisy piglet.

Monday dawned and as the sun was rising, the ashes were already smouldering ready for the lovo (a traditional way of cooking underground using hot ashes and stones). Respect and thanks go out to Mambo Mick, our resident Indiana Jones tribe member, who stepped up to swiftly put the pig to rest. Mick is a source of constant mystery on the island, and has been known to disappear up to the 4 peaks with a drum in his backpack and fresh kava root only to reappear surfing towards Vorovoro on the wake of the boat wearing a wetsuit, a helmet and a smile.

The tribe donned their sulu jabas and bula shirts (colourful Fijian dress), and we were ready to celebrate.
Tui Mali’s entrance was announced by the arrival of the bili bili raft captained by Jone, and crewed by Atama blowing the conch and Jimmy dressed in full traditional tapa. His path lined with ladies, Tui Mali took his seat for the ceremony and Tevita delivered a captivating speech while presenting the whale’s tooth. Although he spoke in Fijian, the emotion and passion transcended language and we all understood. The tribe performed an assortment of mekes (story telling dance) much to the delight of the crowd, who distracted us by covering us in sulus, necklaces, and talcum powder. The day unfolded, food and grog aplenty, until the sun set and we danced and sang through the night.

In the morning, drinking kava on the beach with the big man I handed back the salu-salu and with it chiefdom with mixed emotion. It has been an awesome journey filled with new friends, new challenges and new perspectives, which I wouldn’t change for the world.
After a tearful Isa Lei (a song we sing as we say goodbye) Leavi and Anna (Mrs Tui Mali) waded out to sea after the boats, and far in the background I swear we could see Tevita through a bucket of water over Tui Mali.

We sang all the way to Labasa airport on a big yellow bus and had a final round of Isa Lei at the boarding gate, much to the wonderment of the other passengers. It was an amazing send off.

Vinaka vaka levu to everyone past, present and future who has supported the project. For those of you that couldn’t be there, the madness was recorded by Shine for National Geographic.

Happy birthday everyone, and happy long-life Vorovoro. Here’s to a new adventure.

Moce!