Tribewanted: Vorovoro

Third week on Vorovoro.

Last night a silvery moon presided over the celebratory grog session, the breeze was the coolest I have felt since I arrived but PuPuEpeli said it actually could get better, I said I did not think it could! We had a good sevusevu session with TuiMali and the members who have just arrived, 8 in all. After the formal presentation of the Kava and traditional words that sound like a chant to us, (a few of which I now recognize) TuiMali had some good laughs with us over new arrival, Paul’s “cup stacking” ability..We will fill you in on that later, but in short he will be participating in the world cup in Denver, Colorado this year, representing the UK in his age group. TuiMali tried his hand at this new “sport” and the trials brought a good round of laughter. The sevusevu is not all seriousness! It is a chance for TuiMali to get to know the people who are arriving and he makes an effort to talk to each arriving person, any and all can have a chat with him. I talked with him at length about what we had accomplished in the last month.

The whole day was relaxed and to celebrate Tavita’s birthday TuiMali decided to stay for the incredible dinner that Va, Kessa and assistant this week, Emily, had prepared for us as if it were the easiest thing in the world to prepare a feast for about 35 of us, fresh fish, taro, breadfruit, veggies, more than we could eat. All on three burners…but in the now newly painted kitchen, (utensils have been painted to match) Kessa says she really loves her “new” kitchen, and Va asked if I would put up more decorations, Kessa wants curtains -to be finished this week. If the ladies have to work hard at preparing our food (and so graciously) then it is just that they should work in a cheery environment. I am using some of the Chief’s legacy to get new pots and pans today with the help of Tavita who has been watching me type this at the internet café in Labasa, and he also just asked me to provide him with a Tribewanted email address so that he can “join” the online community. His address for now is tavita219@gmail.com for any of you who want to address him directly.
Both Chief TuiMali and I gave speeches of gratitude before we enjoyed the birthday meal, both of us elaborating on just how important Tavita has been to the success of our cultural exchange. TuiMali is always proud of the fact that we are making an effort to learn such an important part of their culture, the Meke, which is a sort of story telling in a dance and allows generations of Fijians to pass down history and tradition.

We have a very pleasant film crew here with us as of yesterday as well. Isabel, Karyl, and Jose are visiting from the French island of New Caladonia (practically a neighbor of Fiji). They are interested in documenting all aspects of the Tribewanted project, but in particular, the ecology and sustainability side of it. They are great to work with and are joining in all aspects of the tribe daily projects. They were somewhat disappointed in the presence of tin roofs in the village, but we have tried to explain that although they were not something that we wanted to have, that in order to provide for now, accommodations that were within the Tribe’s budget and also waterproof, that the roofs of the sleeping vale and the ecotricity hut will have to remain tin, with the possibility of putting thatch over it. If, as Tavita has said, we can eventually make the bures waterproof, maybe the tin can be replaced. It is no coincidence that most of Fiji now has tin roofs….

The group has enlarged this week but it is not that noticeable really. All have spread out among the various housing options, one couple using also the SunFlower Hut, the film crew are staying in the fun house. I do think we need to progress the new sleeping bure soon for the expected larger numbers, and an “alternative” toilet.
My apologies to all on the forums, but the time, while in town, just doesn’t allow me to participate for now.

The time is speeding by, and I am not sure where the last week went. Projects are progressing although we, as usual, all expect them to move faster, but the weather, lack of materials “special” events and the need to coordinate the work all take their toll.

We had a “go ahead” from PuPu Epeli for the Ecotricity Hut and he wants all the men here (and not working on other projects) tomorrow (that has now been moved to Thursday as they wanted ALL the men there to do it and both Tavita and Marau had to come to town for different reasons) to get it done virtually in one day. Tomorrow we will try and document the progress, (PuPu said to me as I lef that he wanted to go ahead and start today, so I will see what has been done when the boat takes us back in a couple hours.) I think with picking up a few timbers and the roofing nails today we actually do have all that we need. When something is lacking on the island, you don’t just run to the corner store for it…. We have taken the measurements and the new hut will be constructed using the old one as most of the supporting posts are still good. This structure was here before construction began on the Vorovoro Tribe Village, it is about 6 years old. A tin roof will be put in place for now, if it is to be perfectly water proof then we will have to use tin and hopefully clad it with thatch later. The old thatch is still good, although I have heard that PuPu has been eyeing it for another use. Once the Love Shack comes down (it is waiting for its ceremony) we will have wood to use on a few other things. With the saw mill not supplying most of what we need, we can’t progress too many things that require wood.

The entrance of the new Ecotricity Hut will not be facing north this time so that the hut will not be open to where most of the rain and wind come from. There will be an overhang over the entrance so that you won’t get wet coming in. The new storage for the snorkeling gear will also be under the overhang, Marau is very concerned with getting the gear moved to a safe place where it will also not rot. Currently the wooden bin by the tool shed is where it is all kept – and it is ruining. I have started checking the masks and snorkels trying to repair them with silicon, about the only thing that you can repair those masks with.

Small projects continue, the painting of the kitchen is virtually finished. The inside is now a lot more bright and cheerful and the coat of varnish on the outside makes it look a lot less like a shack, but at the same time is in keeping with the natural style of the whole village. Garden work continues today and already in a few days seeds are sprouting. New basil, parsley, and sage along with the tops of a few pineapples (which will eventually produce another) are being planted in SaraJane’s spiral and as soon as we find some coriander in the market in Labasa, that will go in too, Leavi just told me he wants to plant a patch of it and needs cucumber and long bean seeds from the Indian lady at the veg market. Tavita has just gone to do that so that we will get the best seeds at the best price! We have yet to start on the preparation of the bamboo for the new shower screens, as the rebuilding of the Ecotricity Hut has superseded that project, but I think we will be able to finish that as well before I leave. Where does the time go??

Possibly the biggest challenge right now is continuity. Keeping anything going with the constant change over of people is not easy. Hopefully with the planned overlapping of gapers and island administrators everyone will be more aware of what is going on and be able to keep it all going. When talking to Giles last week about the role of Chief he said that he thought that ideally the chief would come for two weeks before starting the month as actual chief, and stay on a week after. If this role is going to be taken seriously and allow for the Chief’s projects to have some continuity as well, this is something to think about. It is a huge chunk of time for those of us who come to fill this role, but I do see the need for it, also so that the Chief can feel comfortable working with who ever is currently administrators on the island. As it is, it is hard for the chief to be included in the ongoing decision making of policy and it’s implementation and the conducting of work and normal affairs simply because the chief walks into all these things which are in progress and there is a lot of background to go with it, not to mention island politics and understanding the ins and outs of working with a culture that has a viewpoint on just about everything regarding life -which is much different from our own. We see the things we like and love about it, but it goes a lot deeper and understanding just how one actually conducts work and coexistence with the people here takes a lot of patience and understanding (on both sides). Tavita and I have been discussing this at length and he plans to dictate a Blog soon to all the tribe concerning his views on such things as the issue of the Chief’s role. He is interested in keeping up with the online community and feeling like a total part of the project, not just what goes on here on Vorovoro, important as this is. I hope to get him to talk some about his very interesting past and role as current chief of his own 7 tribes of Ra, on Viti Levu Island (the south island).

As chief this month I have tried to “tie up” loose ends and see what projects have been left behind and generally give the village a facelift. However, I have been able to get out almost every day for a (needed!) good snorkel, and I have made up a small snorkeling map which will go up along side the “how to snorkel” sheet that I prepared for all of those people who need instruction. After doing a bit of snorkeling over the past three weeks I don’t believe any markings in the water are needed. Using the swim platform as a reference, (yes, the old dock is currently being used as a swim platform, a good place to swim to, relax on and watch the sunset too) and the map that I will leave up, people should be able to find their way into the water to the best areas and not do damage to the soft corals. While on Koro Island, I asked a marine expert just how long the reefs take to grow, I was told from one quarter to one half inch a year…gives you some idea of how long all of this incredible beauty takes to form, and how one kick of a fin can destroy years of growth. Everyone should take care to go in only at high tide unless you know the reef well, the problem also being that if you scratch yourself on the coral, it leaves a nasty cut that heals poorly in this climate.

I continue to look around the village and find things to improve on, gluing the posters up in the toilets, (so that the spiders don’t live behind them) painting “please close lid” on the toilet lids; painting “salt water” in the basin by the sink at the toilets, adding to the gardens-new plants around the toilets and kitchen, new coverings on the tables…tidying up the tarpaulins and tents left behind which are now stored behind the curtains in the Gran Bure. Hopefully all the work started this month will continue with the next chief, in case Jimmy does take over, he has been in on everything that I have hoped to accomplish and can keep the ball rolling. He will be here regardless and help to provide continuity.

I am still looking for new floor covering for the kitchen that will look good with the new paint. One bunk was completed in the family bure, and if there is enough wood after we finish the Ecotricity Hut, then another bunk will be built. Everyone is finding projects to suit themselves and of course, we don’t come to Vorovoro only to build and work. If you want to have a true Fijian experience then you have to find time to walk the beach at sunset or sunrise (or at any time….), swim, snorkel, hike the 4 peaks, feed the pigs, catch chickens, wander aimlessly occasionally, collect your thoughts down by the waterfall, chitchat with the ladies about what they are baking, make a coconut “bilo” (cup/bowl) for your home kava sessions, look for seashells, make a strand of them for your windchime, contemplate the stars,…listen to the great live music provided by our “men’s chorus” around the grog bowl…or… just do nothing for a change, and not sitting in front of a TV. It is part of being here. It is life, the way it should be. Why else does everyone cry when they listen to the Isa Lei as they are sung the farewell to Vorovoro, if they don’t shed tears, they are probably biting their tongue so that they won’t.