Tribewanted: Vorovoro

When I landed in Nadi Airport there was a band playing…
… I felt welcome.

When I flew to Labasa the pilot left the door open…
… I felt trusted.

When the boat arrived in Vorovoro…
… I felt at home.

When I arrived in the kitchen there were hot donuts and tea…
… I fell in love.

That was back in January and five weeks later I was elected chief. Can you Adam and Eve it!? So I climbed to the top of the tree house, claimed the hammock and surveyed my new kingdom – feeling like the Lion King.

Saturday 1 March 2008 marked the halfway mark of this amazing project that is Tribewanted. The workforce pulled out some Fiji magic and transformed the village into something even better. The attention to detail was superb and no trip to Homebase was needed. Giant leaves were used to decorate the shelters providing shade on this blue sky day. The place looked absolutely T for tremendous.

There was a real positive energy about the place and everyone was excited except the pig which got ‘done in’ and shoved in the lovo (underground oven). The guests arrived including teachers and government officials. They were given tours of the place dispelling the myth of a 5-star Vorovoro hotel. There was even a camera man from Fiji One: hello mum!

The ceremony began in the traditional Fijian way. This involved Tevita presenting Tui Mali with a tabua in the form of a whales tooth. And then it was the changing over of chiefs, time for me to shuffle across on two knees, bow and clap three times before Tui Mali and receive the salusalu (a straw-like mini-poncho garment placed upon the shoulders to symbolize the carrying of responsibility). Enter the new chief. As always, there was the ceremonial drinking from the tanoa. A bowl containing the pounded kava mixed with water to produce a muddy sort of drink with amphetic effects called grog. Oh gosh. For the newbies here, grog is anti tolerant and it takes time to build up in your body, maybe a couple of weeks, before you feel any effects. You will feel your tongue turn fury.

With the formal bit done it was time to entertain our guests with the supadupa meke (traditional Fijian dance)! Tops off (boys only) and palm costumes on. Let’s rock this joint. Tevita led the sounds, his deep powerful voice taking over the airwaves with the gang joining in for extra oomph. Beats were getting knocked out on the lali (drum). The place was buzzing. There were 18 tribe members sitting down and bouncing to the left, bouncing to the right and cutting shapes. The crowd was going nuts and decided to distract everyone by sprinkling talcum powder on them, or shoving cake in their mouth, perhaps a big kiss. Large amounts of fun were had by everyone and the word is spreading fast of white people coming from all over the world and learning the meke.

All this energy needed replacing and the cooks had put on a Willy Wonker feast of goodness. Tuck in and fill those bellies with fresh fish and juicy pork. Poor piggy. I have been a vegetarian since 2000 (for spiritual reasons) and no meat or fish has passed these lips. But as a token of respect to Fijian culture, I will push my beliefs to one side and embrace their culture fully for this month. Because of this they call me Tui Koli (Chief Fish).

And that’s pretty much the end of the day. The guests left with big smiles on their faces and Tui Mali looked well chuffed with his big, brown twinkling eyes. As chief I get to hang out with him and chat chief business – this involved me trying to explain what a zombie was. I think we’ll be great buddies and I’m excited about helping to push things forward.

First job: New accommodation. Everybody in the place… let’s go!