Tribewanted: Vorovoro

December took an ever more bizarre twist when we returned from Thursday’s reef trip, triumphant at our huge catch (even I managed to spear SIX fish. It’s just a shame none of them were longer then 4 inches….) to cyclone warnings on the radio. The cyclone even had a name – Damon. Projects were immediately forgotten and we spent the remainder of the day running about securing everything. And then we waited. And. Nothing. We joked about how even cyclones operated by ‘Fiji Time’....

We awoke on Friday to news that cyclone Damon had been upgraded to a hurricane and was heading towards us. At midday. Midday turned into early evening. We spent the day hammering shut all windows, relocating to the staff house. Waiting. That was the worst part. Thank goodness for the Fijians. They kept us calm. The kitchen was relocated to Poasa’a house and Frances cooked up a massive pizza for dinner to keep us sane. Save, Tale, Sose, Johnny and Manusi sat with us well into the evening as the rain and the wind intensified and a bit of informal grog helped us along. We decided to sleep in Tiu Mali’s house – the only concrete structure on the island.

Somehow, I managed to sleep. We were woken before 6 by blessings and beautiful singing led by Poasa and Frances and a huge following of children – just the start of another day for the Fijians, but a humbling event to witness. The skies were clear, the sea was calm – somehow Cyclone Damon had missed us. It was confirmed that it had done a huge U-turn in the night. Hurrah!

I am firm believer that everything happens for a reason, and this particular potential disaster has benefitted us in 2 ways – firstly, we now know how to prepare for similar destructive weather; and secondly, it has brought the community closer together. Staff, tribe members and Fijians all worked together effectively to ensure the protection of our island and the safety of its inhabitants. Its at times like these, when we are tested, that are proof that we have integrated to the point where being on Vorovoro is more a way of life than a ‘social experiment’.