Tribewanted: Vorovoro

See the original article here

Christmas on a tropical paradise island in the South Pacific might sound idyllic, but this was no ordinary holiday.

I was to spend the festive season on a remote island, living with a traditional Fijian community.

After a fraught two-day journey from the UK, I arrived on Vorovoro, 200 acres of cliff-topped jungle and palm-fringed beaches.

I was thrown straight into island life, quickly changing into my sulu (sarong) and covering my shoulders for my welcoming ceremony. I was about to meet Tui Mali, chief of the Yavusa tribe on the adjacent island. I had been prepped on the boat ride, but remembering the correct words to say was a lot to take in after my long journey.

I walked into the village to be greeted by many Westerners (fellow Tribe members) and Fijians. Sitting near the head of the palm mat, I shuffled forward to present my ‘sevusevu’, a gift of yaqona root to thank the villagers for letting me spend time on their island.

This plant is used to produce kava, the traditional drink of the islands. I was nervous about tasting the muddy looking water, which, I had been told, tasted much as one might fear. Clapping once when the ‘bilo’ (half a coconut shell) is passed, means you accept the kava and it then must be drunk in one go, so as not to offend.

These traditional ceremonies can often last hours and are pleasant occasions which bring people together for storytelling and socialising.

Within a few hours tiredness overcame me and I settled into my new bed, surrounded by a mosquito net and looking into the night sky.

I awoke at dawn to rooster calls and brilliant sunshine. The Tribe members arrange their daily activities around the food bell, and at 7am it sounded for breakfast. Being the rainy season, the sun didn’t stay out for long, and in the South Pacific, it really rains! During the downpours we sat in the Great Bure (a big Fijian style house) and made Christmas decorations, read or just chatted. Dry weather meant other tasks could be completed, like weeding, collecting firewood or coconuts.

A short boat ride north of the island lies the third largest reef in the world. I took the opportunity to snorkel here, which was amazing. White tip reef sharks circled below me as I swum amongst colourful fish and beautiful corals.

On Christmas Eve, the tribe members were privileged to be asked to help clean a gravesite on one of the hills on the island. The site is the resting place of Tui Mali’s grandfather, grandmother, father and sister. It was hot work, using a machete to chop away at undergrowth. In the evening we celebrated under a full moon and learnt the meke, a traditional Fijian dance.

Christmas Day bought with it perfect weather and not a drop of rain all day. We feasted on a Fijian meal of fish and chicken.

During the following kava ceremony on the shoreline, sustainability manager Duncan proposed to his girlfriend, staff member Julia, and they had a traditional Fijian blessing with a whale’s tooth, from Tui Mali. Afterwards everyone dived into the sea for a Christmas Day swim – one of the many highlights of my week.

Leaving the island, even just after a week, was emotional. It’s a place where you feel at home immediately and friends are made for life.

Paradise or Bust, a five-part BBC2 TV series about Tribewanted, starts on January 14.

Coming home a nightmare
Fiji is one of the most beautiful places I have ever visited with the friendliest, smiliest people. I wouldn’t hesitate to return despite the problems I faced getting there and back.

Monday, December 17

M4 closed to one lane, arrive at Heathrow just in time for flight.

11 hours later land in LA, onward flight to Fiji delayed.

Therefore miss local connecting flight.

Wednesday, December 19

After eight hours in Nadi airport, Fiji, board local flight, tannoy announces technical problem, all told to disembark.

50 minutes later boarded again and flight departed.

Arrive in Labasa. After taxi and boat ride I finally reach Vorovoro.

In total, my outbound journey to the island had delays of more than 12 hours but that was nothing compared to my journey home…

Sunday, December 30

Ten minutes prior to boarding flight to LA there’s a technical problem and it’s cancelled until 2pm the next day.

Took three hours to re-claim luggage, fill in immigration forms and queue for a local taxi to hotel.

Flight eventually left at 5pm the following day. I spent the Fijian New Year in the air.

12 hour wait in LA for connection, and another hotel stop.

At check-in told there was no booking or seats left. The only way to get home would be to pay 700 for a later flight. Everyone at home was celebrating the UK New Year and I was in tears at the airport.

After boarding the flight, a staff member asked to see seat receipts. I was a nervous wreck until they closed the cabin doors and the plane had left the ground.

Tuesday, January 1

I have never been so relieved to see the grey English winter but just to complete my terrible journey, my luggage had somehow not arrived on the same flight as me!

---

Thanks to everyone I met for making me feel so welcome, it was the best Christmas ever! :)

Sarah (Missy)
#1006