Tribewanted: Vorovoro

Bula sia everybody.

My name is Seroma, the new Wavu on Vorovoro. I arrived in Fiji last Thursday, the homesickness still settling in my stomach. As I waited in the Nadi airport for my connecting flight to Labasa, tears welled up in my eyes, as it finally hit me that I had left my life behind. I’ve been to Fiji three times before, including two stays on Vorovoro, so I knew that I was heading towards paradise, but I still had to drag myself onto an uneventful flight to Labasa.

The moment the plane touched, my apprehensions melted away. Lui was waiting for me at the airport, all smiles as always, ready to hurry me on to my next destination. Hurrying, of course, being a relative term in Fiji. We operate on Fiji time – Viti Taimi – which meant we had time to stop in town for a quick lunch at the Kwang Tung before moving along to Malou. Jone Robinson and Team Fiji met us there, with two huge pigs to take to the island. We lifted them into the boat in giant crates, like pallbearers at a funeral, leaving only scattered room around the edges of the boat for myself and the Fijians. A few even sat atop the crates during the boat ride to Vorovoro. When we arrived on Vorovoro, we had to reverse the process, uncrate the pigs, and get them into the pen on the hill. The Fijians tied a rope onto the back leg of each of the pigs, which barked in displeasure and fought every step of the way, and dragged them backwards uphill, while the rest of us stood back in amazement.

The rest of the week here has been a blur of activity. Friday we visited the Mali District school on Liga Levu. We seperated out into three groups to teach the kids, which was amazing fun. Our group wandered into a classroom with no teacher, which had us a little intimidated, but the kids made it easy on us. They crawled over us like ants, requesting crayon drawings, and being incredibly pleased with the stick figures we managed to produce. The kids sang for us, and performed a few Mekes, followed by games outside: netball, football, airplane (swinging the kids around by their hands), and probably others I missed while passed out on the grass from too much airplane. The highlight of the day was when one of the tribe members, Samu, performed a Maori war dance called a Haka, which involves screaming and chest beating, in the middle of the field – the kids went wild.

Monday we learned a new Meke – the Monkey Meke – “Meke Ni Veli” – that the Fijians from Liga Levu brought with them to the island. It’s based off of the mannerisms of a monkey, with goofy arm movements and swinging heads. The Fijians were awesome teachers, and we all managed to get the Meke down by Tuesday for Sevusevu, so that we could perform for Tui Mali. We wore banana leaf tassels on our arms, and in true monkey fashion, as a headband so that it looked like we were peeking through the leaves. The performance was charged with energy, and Tui Mali and his guests made sure to show their appreciation for our effort. The Monkey Meke wasn’t the only performance for Tui Mali that night. Tribemembers put on a musical show as well: Tomasi on guitar, with Safaira, Fiona, Anna, and Lisa adding their beautiful voices. We even had a breakdancing exhibition from another tribemember Atama. All in all, it was an action-packed Sevusevu. We even had a female Tanoa Guard, Safaira, which I hear is a first on Vorovoro.

Wednesday and Thursday were more relaxed, until Thursday’s grog session. The Fijians dedicated the evening to two tribemembers, Safaira and Mata, who were set to depart on Saturday. Because the Fijians leave the island on Friday afternoon, Thursday was the last night they’d be able to drink with the girls. Mata, one of the girls’ Fijian names, translates as “empty,” as in “empty that bilo of grog,” and she lived up to the moniker that night. Safaira and Mata were the last ones on the grog mat, pounding yaqona while the Fijians serenaded them with goodbye songs.

Friday’s school trip again provided a burst of activity. The Mali Sharks rugby team were at the school, so they joined in the usual activities with us and the kids. We returned in the afternoon for a farewell Tanoa with the Fijians, followed by a lazy evening around the Big Bure.

The tribe was in flux this week. A family of five arrived on Saturday: Jimmy and Jenny, and three kids aged 10, 7, and 4, Lucas, Bethany, and Oliver. They plan on staying for 10 weeks, and immediately began making this place their home. Samu left the island on Monday, finishing his Isa Lei with another Haka, to everybody’s enjoyment. Mary, Timoci’s mother, also left on Monday. Timoci left with her, to help her to her plane, and take the rest of the week as well-deserved holiday. Three more members left on Wednesday: the couple Atama and Hayley, and Anna. Saturday morning saw the departure of Safaira and Mata. Four new members are set to arrive Saturday evening.

The week was a whirlwind, but in every quiet moment, my homesickness returned, stronger every day. They say that you don’t realize what you have until it’s gone. When I left my world behind to travel to Fiji, in search of paradise, I didn’t realize that I had already found my paradise. Vorovoro will always retain a place in my heart and soul, but everything I came here to seek, is waiting for me back in in California. Vorovoro helped me reaffirm my love of life, to which I will be eternally grateful, but this is not the place for me now. I apologize for any inconveniences this causes, but my first Wavu blog is also my last. So as I leave this part of my life behind, I wish the island and tribe the best until my return.

Vinaka vake levu,
Moce, sota tale
Seroma