Tribewanted: Vorovoro

I have heard the phrase “it takes a village” many times, but I have never felt it more keenly than being here in Fiji. I was sent a formal letter, type-written, from the head priest in Maliu via our boat captain in Nackawaga, requesting that we join the other Mali villages in offering prayer and supplies to the families of two young men in Vesi. It turns out that one had a diving accident and had lost use of his legs, and the other fell from a Mango tree and spent 5 months recovering. Since all of the earned money goes to family in the communuity, it means that the families in Vesi were struggling without the income from the two men. So, Gilo and I stocked up on flour and rice and toiletries, as requested, and headed with Jone to Vesi for the evening.

As usual, our timing was off. The Mali women’s group had come and gone, and the folks from Nackawaga weren’t there yet. So, we gave our sevusevu and had some grog with the boys while we waited. Tema, who’d worked in our kitchen, brought us tea, and we enjoyed the chatting as people came and went. When the other villagers arrived, we divided the piles of offereings into two and went from one house to the next, singing prayers and offering support. This is how it works in Fiji. Everyone is there for everyone else. And, as I spoke with Giles, we realized that this is why things often “go missing” in our own village – everything “belongs” to everyone else. And if you need something, you take it, and you put something else back when you have it to share.

Linda and I were invited to Tui Mali’s last Sunday. We rose at 530am with the right tide, so that we could go in his “driveway” through the mangroves, and we were treated to breakfast and endless coffee and resting on his lovely veranda. Mrs Tui Mali, Anna, took us to Vuo for church, and I was asked to say a few words as a special guest. I riffed as best I could, and I think I did alright (though I knew it was too short, given the standard Fijian words said over grog – I have a few things to learn from Te…).

Then, later this week, I returned to Vuo with some tribe members and Frances and Leavi, to meet Tui Mali for attending the “wake” that preceeds a big funeral. Pupu Epeli’s older brother died, at 89, a long full life. But, as an elder, there was a huge funeral in the works. We went to represent Vorovoro and our place in the Mali community. This is of utmost importance to Tui Mali. And it was amazing to experience. We waited our turn, in the dark, as the moon rose, to be called forward to the family in Vuo. Then, the men presented a Tabua along with food and fish and grog and mats. When the acceptance and blessingings were finished, we women went into a “crying room” where those who are closest to the deceased sit near a coffin (empty) draped in lace and purple ribbons and everyone weeps. Then the weeping stops, ceremoniously, and mats are offered and collected to be buried with the body. We could see in the other room heaps of gorgeous mats.

Then, we were ushered out and shown to one of the long tables to eat. As it turned out, with the rising moon came the tide going out, so in order not to get stucked, we headed off into the dark for an amazing boat ride back. And I now have a deeper and first-hand experience of what it means when someone says it takes a village. I feel so honored to be part of this one.