Tribewanted: Vorovoro

Savusavu is known as a posh tourist destination and is only a 2 1/2 hour drive from our base in Labasa…so, having seen only very limited bits of Fiji on my way to and from the island, I took Linda up on her lure of adventure in late April. We had to make it there and back within the day, so we began with an early morning boat to Malau where we were met by our lovely mini-van taxi driver. Sosi and Jone were not working that day, so they had agreed to accompany us – Sosi never having been, and Jone having lived in Savusavu some years prior.

The road up and over Vanua Levu is gorgeous – green and full of pine trees, dotted with small villages and people carrying dalo, we even saw a couple of waterfalls – one of which Linda could not resist on the way back. It’s bumpy at the beginning and end, but the longest mid-section was recently re-done. When you come into view of the ocean on either end, it’s breath-taking, and I was especially enamoured of the view of Vorovoro and Mali from such a vantage point.

Once we arrived in Savusavu, the truth became quickly apparent that it’s almost smaller than Labasa. There is one hotel, the Hot Springs Hotel, at the far end of town which is quite nice and could make for a good meal if you hit the timing just right. Maddie had drawn us a map with some good tips, but we decided to just explore the whole stretch, since we had the time.

Starting at the far end, where the Hot Springs Hotel is, there is an MH Supermarket, which was like an oasis – as promised, we found cheese, olives, pickles, pastas, and good dark chocolate. My ambrosia was in the form of iced Nescafe coffee cans, which we saved for a hot afternoon. We stocked up for some delicious “taste explosions” and key moments when olives and pasta sauce made for great Sunday dinners.

The Copra Shed is a small collection of shops and restaurants, right on the marina, where we had a lovely breakfast and then went to the Surf and Turf for lunch. Despite the heat, the meals were delicious and not overpriced.

The main street has a collection of banks, merchants, and a fruit/veg market. Through the market, you can access a small crafts market, which apparently varies depending on the day. It was quite meager when we got there, but the fruit and veg market had some varietals that we hadn’t seen in Labasa.

And, at the farthest end, there is a computer/electronics shop, and the Bula Re Cafe, which has a nice porch. We stopped for a glass of chilled wine and some garlic bread, and Sosi ran into someone he hadn’t seen in ages. Fiji reminds you that, far-flung as you may feel, there’s always a friendly face around the corner and people to make you feel welcome.

We were worn out from the heat by early afternoon, which was perfect timing to pile back into the mini-van and make the journey back, gorgeous with the sun dropping. We waited in Malau for our return and wondered what was going on as the boat put-putted its way towards us. Turns out Api was giving Giles lessons on how to be a boat captain. And, cautious but dapper, Giles was taking his sweet time…it was a wonderful adventure.