Tribewanted: Vorovoro

A new week unfolds on Vorovoro, the previous having passed in a blur of energy, music, sweat, laughter, cake, rain, and grog. Each day I rose, full of good intentions to blog for the online tribe… and each day brought with it last minute jobs, obligations, and distractions. So here I find myself on a sultry Monday afternoon. The winds are high, bringing sweet relief from the heat of the day and the thirsty mosquitoes.

I returned last Saturday from a few days in Savusavu. My intention had been to take a few days ‘holiday’ (I know, I know!) from the island. Note to reader: do not waste your time and money leaving Vorovoro short-term. The best bit about my trip was coming ‘home’! Chiefly duties began immediately on Monday morning, with my first Team Fiji meeting, which was a little daunting. We had a crew from Ligulevu and one from Nakawaga here to help with work on the Grand Bure and Tevita’s bure, and I was a little overwhelmed to have such a large audience. Monday also brought 5 new arrivals and, finally, the rain.

Watching, and hearing, the progress on both bures this week has been a joy. Tui Mali explained to me that the only time the men can whoop and holler to their hearts content is when constructing a bure. Those of you who’ve already visited Vorovoro may be wondering about the constant clamour of laughter and cat-calling already on the island… you ain’t heard nothing yet! Tevita, who was working up on the Grand Bure roof, told me that some of the young lads up there with him were shy about letting go at first, but once the yells came it was thick and fast… a cacophony of jungle noises and competition!

Tuesday was sevusevu and chief handover day, so I donned my finest sulu chamba and prepared for an afternoon of grog and stories. And cake, of course. It was with pride and a sense of responsibility that I accepted the salusalu from Tui Mali, anticipating the challenges and rewards of the month ahead. Tuesday’s session was long and carried an air of celebration – new month, new moon, new faces, new season. Tui Mali was in fine form, and we swapped stories about our mischievous childhoods late in to the night. Once Tui Mali left with the high tide it was my turn to take my place at the top of the mat. The band was in full swing at the bottom of the mat and the tanoas flowed, one after another. It was a strange sensation sitting at the top, observing the different conversations and interactions going on… I felt like I was watching TV for the first time in many months!

Last week Team Fiji also reintroduced evening prayers down in the village at 6 o’clock. I’ve joined them on a couple of occasions, and although the readings are in Fijian it is a very special way to come together and give thanks at the end of each day. We’ve also been spoilt on a couple of evenings when the younger lads, here to work on the Grand Bure, have taken their prayer/singing sessions to the ocean, and their beautiful harmonies have washed up over the village as the sun sets.

There have been too many occasions to mention this week when I have had to stop and take stock of how lucky I am to be here on Vorovoro and what a unique and valuable experience it is for all of us. The days are passing quickly though so I will treasure each one.