Tribewanted: Vorovoro

It was my first full day as chief and the inland water was like glass in the early morning, bliss to behold although the effect would be dramatically disturbed just a few hours later…

A light wind and conversation picked up after morning tea as tribe member Ian Goudie and I chatted in the hammocks. Ian’s attention was caught by some movement to the west: “Did you see that”?! he cried and leapt bodily from his recline racing to the beach. Hot in pursuit I saw and heard another splash as a large whale breached and then crashed onto the surface of the still calm bay. Word spread and a gaggle of tribe members and Team Fiji gathered on the beach to watch the exciting display.

The whales were heading towards the edge of the reef and the urge to get a closer look was irresistible so a few people boarded one of the boats. Pupu donned his shades and took the helm with Leavi on lookout. We pulled away from the Island and slowly drew closer to what were apparently two whales (mother and child). Our boat Captain and First Mate were conscious we should keep our distance and not spook the visitors. It would be good to see them move away from the reef and out to open sea, so the boat was kept a respectful distance from the whales, between them and the hazard of the coral cul-de-sac. These beautiful animals were majestic and graceful, moving with a speed and dexterity that seemingly belied their size. We were elated to catch a glimpse of these giants.

The Whales turned and headed south-west towards the mainland before joining the ocean current and setting a course towards Kia. `Moce-Moce’! We called as the momma whale flashed her large white tale fin at us one last time and we turned to return to Vorovoro (or so we thought).

Once on shore we could see the back of the large whale as it would glisten in the sunlight. The town trip was due back shortly and it was apparent our guests wanted a curtain call as we saw spouts of water appearing off the western point of Vorovoro: the whales were hovering just off the headland. We pegged it down the beach past the Sunflower Hut and the waterfall shower and shortly the boat returning from Labasa pulled into view. They drifted past the whales and then headed towards our vantage point gliding to a halt just off the island. Then, seemingly inexplicably, several tribe members in succession (starting with Jimmy and Wavu in an embrace), exited the boat into the warm waters as it idled. Some soggy members said it was dunking not diving. “Lewaqa.” (Fijian for “whatever!”)

Moce to our massive visitors. We wish you safe passage and you are welcome to visit Vorovoro anytime.

P.S. if anyone can identify the whales from our photos/movies that would be great. Answers in an email to jimmy.cahill@tribewanted.com or comment on the blog